1/1/2024 0 Comments Suspiria undercover clothing![]() ![]() After all, their past col-lections have drawn on a wide range of cultural touch-stones - running the gamut from Stanley Kubrick to Dieter Rams and Cindy Sherman. Of course, this sort of homage is not out of character for Undercover. Perhaps it is telling that Fallen Man recreated this particular scene for its finale, the fashion show closing with a shower of arrows raining down around a lone dancer perilously navigating the bullseye onstage. Akin to the firing squad, the barrage of anonymous arrows can be taken to represent the will of the people - a decisive symbol of mob justice and a swift rebuke of a tyrannical false prophet. ![]() Culminating in a shower of arrows on the upper echelons of the Spider’s Web castle, Washizu’s agonized expression of defeat in the throes of death has been seared into celluloid history. The film follows the machinations of General Washizu (a Macbeth equivalent) who, goaded on by his wife and a soothsayer’s prophecy, assassinates his Lord Tsuzuki in cold blood - only to become entangled in the same fickle web of power from his stolen throne. For the film, Kurosawa consciously relocated the play’s medieval Scottish setting to a feudal Japan, showcasing the aesthetic signifiers of yesteryear in a sweeping meditation - rich on armor, familial crests, samurai, horse-mounted cavalry, and Noh theatre. Inspired by Akira Kurosawa’s film Throne of Blood, the production was a veritable art installation in its own right - an intricate tapestry interweaving contemporary dance and fashion, set to a pulsating electronic soundtrack.Ī seminal masterwork of the Japanese cinema, Throne of Blood was a lavishly stylized adaptation of Shakespeare’s Macbeth. That show was, of course, Undercover’s 2020 Autumn-Winter collection: Fallen Man. ![]() As all the appraising eyes turned toward Paris Fashion Week in January 2020, prior to our prolonged pandemic, one particular show stood out as a uniquely imaginative triumph - transcending the framework of genre and time and transposing the rarified world of feudal-era Japan to the runways of Paris. ![]()
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